Travel Diary » Stuck in Veliko Tarnovo
Stuck in Veliko Tarnovo
For the past week we've been stuck in Veliko Tarnovo in Bulgaria. Why? Because we can't decide where to go next. Seriously, we've been here six nights ... four nights longer than we were anticipating trying to decide where to go next. Our initial plans have fallen through and all of the alternatives are equally good, equally flawed.
I know, you're probably sitting there thinking are they seriously complaining about having too options of where to spend the next few months in Eastern Europe? It does sound kind of ridiculous!
Our initial plan (well it's really about Plan W but it's "the plan" we've been sticking to for at least three weeks now without changing our minds) was to spend Christmas/New Years at a ski resort in the Balkans then make our way to Crete to rent an apartment for a month with friends.
A few days before Christmas things started to unravel. There is no snow ... or at least not enough. The brief dumping just before Christmas put some snow on the mountains in Bulgaria but the forecast for the next two-three weeks is sunny days. We'll have to do snow later in our trip and go to Crete earlier than we were anticipating. Plan X!
Then our friends realised that they wouldn't be able to make it to Crete until mid January, leaving us with a decision: Spend a month in Crete but actually only two weeks of that with friends and the rest of the time running around a hotel that is closed expect for us in an empty resort town (sounding like the setting for a horror movie yet?) ... or skip Crete altogether and find something else to do.
After what felt like a month of debating and going in circles we've decided to skip Crete. Plan Y it is! The problem is narrowing down Plan Y. Google Maps came out and ideas were thrown around. And around ... and around.
That's when things started to get a little silly. Or inspired if you ask Colin
Colin over Christmas lunch: "Lets go around the Black Sea. We'll go the whole way. How cool is that. Eastern Turkey, Georgia, Russia ..."
Tracy: "In winter? With no planning or knowledge of visas? The bus and train networks don't work that well in summer from what I've heard, so winter?"
Colin: "But it'd be cool! ..."
By this point I can pretty much anticipate Colin's next words ... "How about we buy a car like this and drive around the Black Sea ..."
I think it's safe to say Plan Z is not driving around the Black Sea in winter ... at least not this trip!
So here we are in Veliko Tarnovo.
There are certainly worse places to be stuck.
Veliko Tarnovo is one of the most beautiful cities we have ever seen. Perched on the top of three hills with the Yantra river winding in between, it's like a post card. I almost feel like I'm staring at one of those 1000 piece jig saw puzzles of some amazing European town rather than looking out a restaurant window.
Colourful houses cascading down the hills and leaning over gorges surrounded by high peaks and walled fortresses. I could move here in a heartbeat. Quiet backstreets with no cars that the kids can wander along, small enough that you can walk everywhere. But large enough that there are heaps of restaurants and one small mall with a cinema.
Apparently in summer and spring it's even more beautiful with vines growing over many of the houses and tree lined streets, and lots of nearby waterholes to swim in.
Once each of the three hills was surrounded by fortifications. Now the most extensive fortifications remain on Tsarevets. The ruins are huge. We didn't really grasp how large they were until Christmas eve when the fortress was lit up by a sound and light show.
The kids had a lot of fun exploring them in the snow. Noah of course had to take the hard way up every at every turn - up the snowy hills rather than the paths.
Along the main street are some fantastic restaurants with full glass walls overlooking the city. The view is superb and the food is ludicrously good.
And cheap. Less than 2 euros for a pizza and 3 euros for a main course. We've eaten at Ego Restaurant four times this week. It's hard not to be impressed by a restaurant with 180 degree views that serves the kids four scoops of ice cream for .60 euros. Or waffles with chocolate and baileys for me!
Yes there are worse places to be stuck.
The plan is to leave today ... to where? We're not sure yet. It's time to flip a coin!
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Family of four who decided to change their lifestyle & travel the world. Follow our adventures, hear about our mistakes and dream creating your own travel lifestyle
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29/12/2011 10:56pm (5 months ago)
But it would be cool! I am all over the car idea!
I think it's great that you guys went in winter. I am sure it is a totally different feel and the pictures look awesome. Our European list grows each time we see where you guys are going!
30/12/2011 4:05am (5 months ago)
Hmm..you guys look very Canadian with your hats, mitts & parkas...in fact, your snowy photos look like Canada (except for the architecture and the car). Since you've already bought the winter gear, why not make use of it and stay in some snowy climates (the kids will probably be outgrown it next year). Just a thought :)
30/12/2011 10:53am (5 months ago)
Wow, that is quite a beautiful place to be stuck. Glad you're making the best of plans falling through. It's difficult when there are so many good options available and only so much time. I'm sure you'll enjoy whatever you decide.
30/12/2011 2:45pm (5 months ago)
What a beautiful place to be "stuck" in! Whatever your decision I am sure you will have a fabulous time!
31/12/2011 12:05am (5 months ago)
Thanks everyone. Veliko Tarnovo was a great place to be stuck. We'd happily get stuck there again.
@Joanna - We're hoping to have a white christmas in Northern America next year. As you say, now that we have all the gear ...
@Justin - I tell you what, how about you and Colin drive that car around the Black Sea next year while your wife and I take the kids to a tropical resort somewhere.
31/12/2011 7:32am (5 months ago)
Why in the world would you want to leave somewhere with waffles, chocolate, and Baileys? Plan ZZ should be buy the house next to the restaurant and settle in for the winter!
06/01/2012 12:04am (4 months ago)
Looks like a nice spot to be stuck for a couple of weeks. Looking forward to the next story from your adventure.
Love the blog, kind regards, Si
08/01/2012 12:14am (4 months ago)
@Steve - ha that's pretty much the plan for one year soon. I figure if we live close enough they may even home deliver waffles to me!
@Si - thanks!If I had to pick a spot to be stuck, Veliko Tarnovo would be near the top of my list. It was a lovely place.