Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep

by Miguel Gluton

In Chiang Mai Noah, Hayley, Daniel and I visited Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, an important Buddhist temple 15km outside of the city on top of a mountain. The songtheow ride up the mountain was an experience in itself. We had to really hold onto the kids as they got thrown around sitting in the back of a truck going up a winding range. It didn’t help that the crazy driver took corners like a rally car driver as he missed gears and at one point we were sure the engine gave out. By the end we all had to hold onto our stomachs too!

Our driver dropped us off at the base of the temple complex where 309 steps awaited us. There was a inclined lift to the top of the hill but what we didn’t realise was that the entrance to the lift was on the main road just down from the temples main entrance. We were already 70 steps into our climb before we figured it out and just decided to climb the rest of the way. Here’s the final stretch of stairs – not quite as lethal as Batu Caves in KL but it was hard work for the kids to reach the top.

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We made it, but not without a lot of “my legs are tired” cries.

This beautiful little girl was one of many people asking for donations towards poor children lining the steps. It’es definitely worth climbing the steps with some loose change as many of the causes looked very worth while. Although I do feel very sad for the little kids that have to sit there all day on show.

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The temple was first built in the 14th Century. The story goes that six hundred years ago religious relics were put on the back of an elephant who was directed to climb Doi Suthep mountain. Where the elephant stopped the temple was to be built, and here it still stands today. Of course its been expanded on since then and is a lot grander these days. The highlight of the outer grounds – the view for me, and for the kids it was the ten thousand bells surrounding the inner temple. OK so ten thousand is a slight exaggeration, but there were at least 100 bells of differing sizes. Noah rang them all.

Unfortunately for us it was quite cloudy the day we were there so I don’t have any nice photos of the view.

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Shown here is just one section of bells surrounding the inner temple. There were 5 other sections with just as many bells! Perfect if you’re a kid, not so great for anyone visiting with a hangover! Poor Daniel didn’t enjoy this part of the day.

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The kids also like the two statues of ‘Mom’ dragons guarding the entrance to a small shrine. “Why are there two Mum’s and no Dad?” they kept asking. I didn’t really know how to answer this one without insinuating that either all Mum’s are really dragons and that’s why they are so cranky … or opening up the whole ‘lesbian marriages’ can of worms. I chose the third option “I don’t know guys, maybe the Daddy’s at work”.

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Apart from the bells and dragons the outer compound really wasn’t that exciting.

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We were starting to wonder why everyone said we ‘had to’ come to Doi Suthep … and then we went into the inner temple compound …

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It was breath-taking. I’ve honestly never seen that much gold in my life, perfectly polished and shining on ever surface. Delicate gold umbrellas, giant green statues as a contrast and people praying with incense everywhere while the less faithful post for that perfect holiday snap with the stupa in the background. Its worth nothing that you need covered shoulders and knees to enter the temple. I had to borrow a sarong (for 10 bath)

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